Wrinkled, drooping, lackluster and
old! No, we're not talking about you, but if the
shoe fits! Anyway we are referring to that unsightly
original Mustang dashpad that you have been looking
at for so long, but not doing anything about. Ford
chose to create the early Mustang pads from a rubberized
foam that was then covered with a vinyl skin. It
has no internal metal support frame and consequently,
after years of varying weather conditions, the foam
alone usually appears as we have previously described.
In order to have the pad restored, you
must first remove it from the car. Here
we will show you how to remove and replace
the eyesore, and also how to have it returned
to concours condition. Our project is
a 1968 Mustang notchback that is undergoing
a complete restoration.
Tools that will be necessary are a 3/8-inch
nutdriver with sockets, short and long
Phillips head screwdrivers, 3/8-inch box
end wrench, towel, and whatever size wrench
is necessary to disconnect your negative
battery connection. We are removing the
instrument cluster as well to clean all
the gauges. This pad is drooping so far
over the top of the cluster that it will
be impossible to remove without creating
further severe damage to the pad itself.
This cluster must come out, your's may
not have to. Put the screws and fasteners
into individual bags and label everything
as you take it from the car. This will
make the reinstallation a lot easier.
Begin the pad removal by disconnecting
the battery cable since both doors will
be open for some time. Then remove the
four Phillips head screws holding the
temperature control panel and pull it
forward and down out of the way.
Pull out the ash tray and remove it from
the bracket. Remove the three screws holding
the ash tray bracket and remove the bracket.
Now reach up through the ash tray hole
and remove the speed nut securing the
right side of the plastic cluster to the
metal dash. Then remove the five screws
securing the instrument cluster (three
top, two bottom) and pull it forward.
The towel is placed over the steering
column to prevent damage to the paint.
Reach in through the hole created by
the temperature control panel removal
and unscrew the speedometer cable from
the back of the cluster. Then pull the
cluster forward enough to disconnect the
three harness plugs at the back of the
cluster. The gauges can be removed as
a complete unit. The three screws holding
the top of the cluster also pass through
the dash pad.
Using the long Phillips head screwdriver,
remove the metal trim moulding at the
very front of the pad at the windshield.
When the trim is removed, you'll find
several screws that secure the front edge
of the pad. Remove them.
Now remove the glove box, and through
the resulting hole, remove the speed nuts
securing the right hand decorative dash
facing. Part of the vinyl material from
the pad is tucked behind this trim item,
so it must come off.
By reaching through the temp control
hole you can remove the 3/8-inch speed
nut from the stud at the very bottom corner
of the dash pad. The opposite side can
be accessed through the glove box hole.
With all the retainers removed the pad
can now carefully be peeled up and off
the metal dash face. Use care not to rip
or destroy the floppy foam pad while removing
it.
With the pad out of the car it can now
be sent out to be restored. We are sending
this wasted example to Just Dashes for
a complete make over. While the instrument
cluster is out, you can clean all the
gauges, replace any burned out light bulbs
and lubricate the speedo housing and cable
with graphite.
At Just Dashes we followed the resto
process through the various steps. We
also removed the vinyl trim facing around
the radio and console storage area. It
was warped and the vinyl was peeling away
from the frame.
The pad was first skinned, and all the
old cracked and broken vinyl removed.
Then a new skin of closed-cell, high-density
foam was glued to the original factory
foam. The new foam is then hand sanded
to conform to the exact shape of the pad.
The original ridges as found on the upper
facing edge of the pad are replaced using
a round welting. For the perfectionist,
the factory style stitching can be added.
This is a labor intensive process but
the end results are worth the effort.
After the foam is finished the pad is
placed into a Thermo-Vaccum forming machine
and a new skin of correct grain vinyl
permanently applied. New speaker holes
are then drilled using a special template
created by Just Dashes.
The end product is perfect and exactly
matches the original as when it was new.
No more drooping, cracks or disfiguration.
The replacement process is just a reversal
of the removal procedure. No tricks or
special tips, the pad will simply slide
over the dash and be secured at all the
original points. Once the pad is in place,
the items you removed can be reinstalled
and the project completed.
If you have never tried this procedure
before, allow an afternoon for the removal.
It pays to proceed slowly and not damage
any other parts in the process. It is
an extremely rewarding job that will bring
a smile to your face every time you drive
your Mustang. |
(Click Here to view a larger photograph)
(Click Here to view a larger photograph)
The original dash pad in this '68 Mustang is
cracked and severely drooping on both sides. This
is a common problem with the early pads as they
have no internal structure but are entirely composed
of rubberized foam under the vinyl.
(Click Here to view a larger photograph)
After disconnecting the battery, four Phillips
screws holding the temperature control panel are
removed, and the panel pulled out and down out of
the way. This gives access to the speedometer cable
at the back of the instrument cluster and also the
attaching stud at the lower point of the pad where
we are pointing.
(Click Here to view a larger photograph)
Since the dash fascia trim panel also covers
the vinyl overlap of the pad, it must be removed.
By removing the glove box door you can access the
speed nuts through the glove box hole.
(Click Here to view a larger photograph)
The lower stud on the passenger side can now
be removed from the point of the dash pad. It is
behind where we are pointing.
(Click Here to view a larger photograph)
We have taken the instrument cluster free of
the dash and it is resting on a towel on the steering
column. The pad was jammed over the top of the cluster
and never would have come out without severe damage.
The three screws securing the top of the cluster
also pass through the pad. |
